Building A Case For My Set Of Dueling Pistols. DIY

Building A Case For My Set Of Dueling Pistols. DIY

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My set of pistols. My gun is much older than the one from my brother-in-law. But they are a matched set. Same style, same caliber, etc.

Greetings ~

Around 50 years ago, I decided that, one day, I was going to build a set of dueling pistols complete with case. For many years that project was on the back burner. After all, I first had to get the set of pistols.

In 1981 I built a percussion cap and ball pistol. It was a single shot Revolutionary War style gun that fires black powder with a ball and wad. I have fired the gun several times. I built it in .45 caliber. Even though I did build a few other black powder guns such as a Kentucky Rifle and a double barreled derringer, I never got around to building a matched pistol for my dueling pistol set. Fast forward to the present time...

One year ago, (at this writing), my brother-in-law passed away. His widow was overwhelmed with clearing out his things. Chuck was a collector of many things much like myself. As we got started, one of the things we found was a perfect copy of my cap and ball pistol. As it turned out, he had built one just like mine. I was floored. My sister-in-law told me to take it.

So now that I had a matched set of pistols, it was time to get started on the case to put them in. Hey! It's only been 41-years since I built my pistol. Anyway, this blog is all about the process of this construction. If you are thinking of doing the same, I hope this blog may help you out. I plan to make the case antiqued. I have collected all the items that I will need to furnish this set: powder flask, caps, balls, antique tools, etc. This should be a fun project. So, let's get started.

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Hello! I'm Mr. Ed

Blog Created: 11-27-2022

Last Updated: 3-10-2023 / 8-18-2023

Hanrdware Used:

Hinges - 1-1/4"x1-1/4" // Brass Corners - 5/8"x1-3/4" // Lock Hasp - 1-3/4".

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Some History On Dueling - Through Pictures ~

Some History On Dueling - Through Pictures ~

The art of dueling began with fencing with swords. But dueling actually began centuries before.

Of course, once guns were invented, it only stands to reason that man would use them for dueling purposes.

An Act for the punishing and preventing of Duelling (1728), Massachusetts Bay Colony.

1955 Ad for Hamilton Dueling Pistols set in .22 caliber. They cost $20. For a felt lined, redwood case, ad an additional $3.95.

There has also been toy and prop dueling pistols for those second graders who had to settle arguments over lunch money.

The first dueling pistols in America were flintlocks. This is the most common type.

Percussion type dueling pistols followed but by then, dueling was fazing out by law.

Dueling pistols almost always came complete with a presentation box. It included the tools and ammo needed to kill your opponent.

This is the style of box that I plan to make.

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Well, there's no time like the present to get started

First step is selecting the wood for the case ~

My wife found this wood at a craft shop in Berlin, Ohio. She bought me three bundles. They were only $4.95 each bundle. You can't beat that.

For the case, I need 18" long pieces and, by golly, these are 18" long.

For the lower side of the case, or the bottom, I will be using 1/2" plywood.

For all of the dividers inside, I will use 1/4" plywood.

I will cut the lid from a 1/2" board.

I have a set of tiny decorative hinges that will be added to the lid.

I want to add decorative brackets on the cabinet corners and the corners of the lid. The ones on the lid will protect it from dings and bashes. I also want to add a tiny lock of some sort. I have been unable to get these pieces locally. The pictures above are from the Etsy website and I may have to order them through that site.

The furnishings for the case and set are shown above.

I placed the two pistols in the direction that they will go in the case and measured them. They are 15-1/2" long x 6" wide x 2" thick.

With those measurements in mind, I lay out the case.

Cutting the side boards to 12".

The front boards are 18" long. The side boards are 12" long.

I will be using dowel pins for the corners. I am cutting the dowel pins myself.

I checked the fit of the pistols by laying them out in the square of the box.

Actually, the fit works perfectly.

I'm going to connect the corners with dowel pins. So I will be using my old dowel pins connectors set. These work pretty well.

These are in two sizes. If you want a set and can't find them at the big stores like Lowe's and Home Depot, try a local hardware store if there's any left in your area. Or maybe you can get them online. I bought these around 30-years ago. I don't even know if they still make them.

I then start cutting the dowel pins.

I cut eight dowel pins, two for each corner.

I sand each pin so it will slide into the holes easier.

Then I drilled the holes in the ends of the front and back boards.

After marking the hole locations on the ends of the side boards, I drill those holes as well.

The dowel pins are tapped into the front and back board holes.

Of course these pins are glued in using wood glue.

Then the front and back boards are lined up to the side boards and the dowel pins are tapped in the rest of the way.

Then any eccess of the pins are cut off.

Next the box is clamped to let the dowel pin glue dry.

The project is left overnight for the glue to dry.

The next day we are ready to close in the box.

I'm using a sheet of 1/8" plywood for the bottom of the box.

I measured the plywood and am ready to cut it out.

I get out my palm sander...

...and sand the edges of the cut plywood.

I'm using 5/8x19 wire brad nails to attach the bottom plywood. I've had these nail for 30-years. They cost me a whopping 83 cents.

The bottom is attached.

It looks like the pistols fit perfectly. The next step will be installing all of the dividers.

Inside dividers ~

I want to use t he pattern of the antique case as close as possible. I like the layout of it. So, I cut the corner boxes first.

Firsst I cut the panels for the corner boxes and the divider.

I'm using the same thin plywood as I did for the bottom floor of the box.

The corner boxes are cut at an angle.

I am not gluing them in yet. Just checking the fit.

Two sets are cut, one for each side. All of the dividers I cut at 2-1/4" wide.

Next, I cut out the center box.

The last parts to the dividers are the two spacers for the top compartment.

The inside of the box will be lined with green felt.

NOTE:

My case will be somewhat different than the antique. For one thing, I used dowel pins at the corners. Also, the lid will be different. I am trying for a more decorative lid that will be trimmed and carved.

Felt Lining ~

I have to be very careful with the lining. The cuts need to be as close as possible. I only have so much felt to use. There should be enough if I don't screw it up.

First I cut out the piece of felt for the box floor.

Then I smear the wood glue all over the floor making sure that every square inch is covered and that the corners are covered well.

Two putty knives are used to smear the glue. The corner knife is used for pressing the felt into the corners. The other straight knife is used for simply smearing the glue all over the box floor.

I find that the glue works really well. Once the felt is put in and pressed down, it stays in place great. So the floor is finished.

Next is the dividers for the compartments. They are covered with glue and the felt is wrapped around them.

Using the weights, I press the felt to the wood for about an hour for the glue to fully dry.

I cut the felt so the wood at the bottom edge is bare so the glue will later hold fast once the divider panels are put into the box.

More divider panels are done.

I put the dividers into the box just to check the fit. They are NOT glued in yet.

DAMN! This might just work! Looks pretty good so far.

More dividers are done.

The dividers are going to look good. This thing is coming together nicely.

One of the accessories that I need is the cleaning rod for the pistols. So while the glue is drying on the dividers, I am going to make one. I found an old wooden knob and will use a dowel rod.

I stuck the dowel rod down the barrel to one of the guns to see how long I needed the rod to be. Then I cut it off, drilled a hole in t he knob and glued the rod into it.

I made cleaning rods for all of my other pistols as well as my rifles. I just chiseled out the one end for the cleaning patch. I left it jagged to hold the patch tightly.

The knob handle will work good.

The center box of the case comes next. I have it glued together and clamped.

I will need a lock for the box. I took out my box of locks and selected two to think about. They are small locks, one newer and the other older. I'm kind of moving toward the older one. We'll see. Ha ha! Box of locks, that's funny!.

Back in the 1940s, my dad built his own tool box and made this shield from metal with his initials to put on the lid. I lost the tool box in 1995 in a workshop fire. I managed to retrieve the shield from t he rubble. I cleaned it up and it's been in my present shop, hanging on the wall for over 20-years. This will be put on the lid of the pistol box.

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Let's go to another subject for just a minute. I've been asked over the years how I keep mice out of the house. Well, actually, I've never once been asked that. But here's how I do it. I bought these rodent controllers almost five years ago and they work great. They give off a sound wave that drives mice, rats and bugs crazy. They can't be heard by humans or house pets. But they work perfectly.

We bought a four pack and put one in the workshop in the basement, another on the first floor, yet another on the second floor and finally the last one in the garage.

The red flashing light tells you they are in operation. Once the light stops flashing, you need to replace them. But the lights have been flashing now for almost five years.

There was a time when I kept finding tiny mouse poo poos on my workbench. I bought the blocks of poison but the little critters only laughed and said they knew what those were and they never touched them. So I put this things in and have never, once found any poo poos again. No signs of mice anywhere in the house or garage. I have seen them in the yard holding their ears so these must work.

No! I am not being payed to talk about these plug-ins. I just wanted to let any of you out there know that, if your having problems with mice, there is a solution. You can get these at Lowe's and I think that most hardware stores carry them. As I remember, the four pack costs me $20. Best 20-bucks I ever spent. I once payed $35 for a 1966 Cadillac Fleetwood that ran great. So that was the best $35 that I ever spent. But this was the best $20 that I ever spent. The best $10 that I ever spent was...okay, that's enough!

Now back to the gun box.

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Next, I start gluing the felt to the square box that will go in the center of the case.

While the glue dries on the box, I flip over the felt on the ends of the tiny dividers and glue and clamp them.

I then glue in the felt on the other end of the center box.

The case is looking fairly nice. Still not gluing the dividers in, just checking the fit again.

Now I start gluing the felt onto the walls around the case.

I clamped some scrap pieces of wood on the felt section to keep even pressure on it for the glue to dry.

I'm getting a bunch of felt scraps. I'm keeping them for the time being as I may need a few for fill-in pieces as I finish up the inside of the case.

The inner box is getting done.

And so are the side walls.

The inner box is finished.

I need knobs for the corner boxes. On the original box, the knobs are simple small brass pins.

I found these wooden knobs in my stash. I have them in two sizes. I plan to use the larger ones. The smaller ones are too hard to get a grip on.

Using my razor knife box cutter, I trim off any excess felt from around the top of the box.

I put the dividers in. It's time now to glue them in place.

NOTE:

Change of design > Once I made the cleaning rod, I found that the handle knob will not fit in the compartment in the case. Or any compartment in it at all. So I had to change the layout slightly. Instead of the two long sections being straight, I am cocking them slightly. These cases were originally made custom for a pair of pistols and all are different. So this will not be an issue. Plus it will fit the gun barrels much better and will help keep them in place.

Right now the center box is up-side-down. Once righted, the top edge will be covered over with the felt.

Here again is the accessories that will go with t he set. I have added the cleaning rod plus a small bottle of cleaning oil. Also, I removed the large powder flask and replaced it with a smaller one. The large flask is for rifles anyhow.

I forgot t hat I needed to add a screwdriver. I checked my "old time" tools collection and found one which goes along with the period. Plus I am adding a pick tool for removing the fired caps if they become stuck.

Another thing I need to add are the lead musket balls. Can't have a proper duel without ammo.

I got the center box placed. Just have to glue it in.

Once the center box is glued, it's weighed down for a few hours.

Next, I need to get the corner boxes done. I cut spacers to line the corner boxes for the lids to rest on.

The spacers are cut so that the lids will rest evenly to the box depth.

Then the two lids are measured and cut to fit.

The spacers are glued in place.

Then the knobs are glued to the corner box lids.

The interior to the box is finished. Now I have to make the lid to the case.

Now it's on to the hardware ~

Now it's on to the hardware ~

I cut the lid out of 1/4" finished plywood.

The hinges are installed. The larger hinges were too big and the screws did not line up. I'm lucky I had these fancy smaller ones.

Next comes the lock hasp.

Next comes the lock hasp.

Then the lock itself. This tiny lock comes with three keys.

The shield has to be centered.

I had to make sure the screws are short enough not to go all the way through the lid.

Next comes the brass corner plates. These protect the corners from damage in normal wear.

The case's construction is finished. The hardware come back off so I can stain it. This is the second to last step.

Staining ~

Staining ~

I decided to stain the case with the Minwax "Golden Oak".

The inner box lids are stained the same.

Next comes the clear gloss finish.

I'm using a water based clear gloss. I don't want this case too shiny. I want it to appear to be somewhat aged.

Every exposed section of wood is covered. Even the bottom. Note: Always sign your work and date it.

I put a second coat of gloss on the box. That's enough!

After the hardware is put back on, it's done!

IT'S FINISHED!

IT'S FINISHED!

There's three keys to the lock.

Okay! That's it. The case turned out fairly nice, I guess. It took just under a month to build. I did it a little while each day and there were days when I didn't get to it at all. But it's finally finished and I can now challenge my neighbor to a duel. We have a few issues.

I've wanted to build a dueling pistols case for most of my life. I collect antique guns and you just have to have a proper set of dueling pistols in your collection. So now my biggest concern is if my neighbor is a better shot than I am. We'll see. But now that this is done, I think I'll go watch a movie. Talk later ~

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CLICK THE FOLLOWING LINKS FOR MORE OF MY DIY PROJECTS ~

CLICK THE FOLLOWING LINKS FOR MORE OF MY DIY PROJECTS ~

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